Trip Journal

Background

The idea for this trip started with a visit to the Houston Museum of Fine arts in October 2002, where Becky & I saw a traveling exhibit of French Impressionist Art from the Ordrupgaard Museum in Copenhagen. Also included in the exhibit was a room devoted to the turn of the century Danish masters. I was drawn to the works of L.A. Ring. There was a large one of a landscape (xxMelby) . I felt like I could walk right into the scene. Or better still bike into the landscape!

Then last winter in the recumbent newsgroup some of us were posting photos of our daily commute. I posted mine and one of the Danes in the news group, Torben Scheel also posted his. Somewhere in the middle of his photos. He included a copy of the other L.A. Ring painting that facinated me so. It turned out that both paintings were painted within a few kilometers of Torben's home.

Torben and I started exchanging email and my trip started coming together.

So here I set out to do just that.

I arrived at Bush Intercontinental and checked bags. The bike weighed in at 54.5 lbs. The counter agent looked at the large case with a bicycle symbols stenciled on the side and asked if there was a bicycle inside. I only replied that it was a standard piece of luggage - 62". This was accepted but the counter agent called someone to measure. I tried to remain calm and look nonchalant because it really measures 64". The guy that came to measure announced that it was exactly 62".

Typical of Continental, the plane was late. When we did load there was a mechanical problem that kept us on the ground at the gate for 2 hours.

8/22/03 - Schipol, Amsterdam

In the over night flight, I managed only a few hours sleep. Because of the delay in Houston, we arrived nearly two hours late. By a miracle, I made my connecting flight as it was boarding. Once on board I discovered that KLM & Continental had double booked my seat and several others.

8/22/03 - Kastrup/Koebenhavn

I arrived but not my luggage. I took a taxi into the city Centrum, where after checking into the Hotel Absalom, I made a quick phone call home and then tried to catch up on my sleep.

8/23/03 - Koebenhavn

The front desk called about 10:00PM on the 22nd. with news that my luggage was to be delivered later in the evening. It was waiting at the front desk when I went to breakfast. I was anxious to see how my bike had fared the trip. Right after breakfast I tackled the bike assembly. I could tell from the presence of the cable tie that the bike had not gotten a physical inspection from the TSA. The bike was in good shape with no bent or broken spokes this trip. There was however a problem with both computers. The wire on the VDO was broken and for no obvious reason the Vetta did not function. (I later determined that the Vetta also had a broken wire.) A planned trip to DCF (Danske Cyker Forbund) now included a repair or replacemint of the computer wire. In searching for DCF, I picked up some mineral water at a SPAR grocery and made the return through a park where I saw a Black bird with white wings and tail. It looked and acted like a grackle. I learned later from Torben that it was a Magpie.

With the new computer wire, I was able to get one computer working.

Around noon I called Mikael Seierup. and arranged to meet him at his place around 2 PM. At 1 PM it was raining so between showers I headed out on my bike. A little after 2 we left to see the 90th birthday celebration of the HC Anderson/?? statue of The Little Mermaid. By the time we got to the festivities, it was raining fairly hard so we didn't stay long. By 10 minutes later, it had stopped completely. We stopped at a little place for something to drink and to discuss supper plans. Mikael invited me back to his place for a supper of vegetarian chili. After supper at Mikael's, I biked back to the Absalom and packed for the trip start tomorrow AM.

When I arrived at the hotel, The night manager stopped me at the door when I tried to bring in my bike. After considerable discussion, I convinced him that I had earlier received permission from the front desk. He was not pleased, but relented. I immediately managed to loudly bang the crank arms into the stainless steel elevator walls.

8/24/03 - To Hilleroed

I got away from the hotel by 9AM.

Just before my trip, I learned that the museum was closed for remodeling. The closest I got was a photo of the gate at Ordrupgaard. At Torben's suggestion, I took the route through Dyrehavn, the royal hunting ground near Ordiapgaard. It seemed simple enough. There was a straight road diagonally from the SW corner to the NE. Well, somehow I missed it. But with my trusty GPS I can get back on track right? Well it took me two or three tries but my GPS did really come through.

I got to Humlebaek by 10AM an hour ahead of schedule. About 5 minutes after I arrived, Mikael Seierup showed up. I was surprised. I did not expect to see him again before I returned to Koebenhavn.

Torben showed up right at noon. After ogling each others bikes, we headed of toward Helsingoer and Hamlet's castle. Following a quick photo op at the Castle, we headed toward Hilleroed. Two castles later, we arrived at Torben's (Castle). Previously, Mikael had left us at Freidenborg? castle.

At Humlebaek, Torben let me know that his wife Anne Mette has baking a cake and that he had set up his tent in the back yard in anticipation of me spending the night. It seemed ok that I should take him up on the offer. After cake and coffee, I showered and we drove to a restaurant for dinner in Graested, a small town about 30km. away.

Torben and Anne Mette have two cute daughters, Maja & Nanna who are about style='mso-spacerun:yes'> 7 & 5. Both it turned out were very shy and could not warm up to ''Onkel Cletus".

8/25/03 - To Ebeltoft

After a light breakfast of bread homemade rhubarb jam and coffee, I set off following a numbered cycle route suggested by Torben. It was wooded and rural and eventually led to a small lake. The wooded part was not paved. Just before the lake I had a flat. This set me back about half an hour. Not to bad considering I got off at 8:30AM. The problem appeared to be cut in the tube I could not find a source for the flat puncture. I did notice that the rim tape had exposed a hole for one of the spokes. I readjusted the tape and I put in a new tube but worried that I would have another flat if there was something in the tire.

After the small lake, I was back on paved roads. The wind was starting to pick up and as I reached the shore of Aarressoe, The cycle route turned into a really bad dirt road. It wasn't long before I hit a patch of soft sand and went down. Soon though, I was back on style='mso-spacerun:yes'> paved road and worked my way around the lake against the wind to Melby.

It was at Melby that I had a second flat. It was nearing 11AM when I startet to fix it with another spare tube. The hole in tube number two was in a different place, and again I was unable to find a cause.

The ferry at Hundested runs hourly on the hour. It would be a push to catch the Noon ferry. I arrived at 12:15...

I bought my ticket and waited for the ferry. There soon arrived two couples on motorcycles. I struck up a conversation with one that just happened to be from Hilleroecl. The guy was helpful in filling me in on the procedure for bikes. The other bikers and me loaded last.

Once on Sjaeland Odde, it took me many route changes to get around 'Auto only' roads. The last best ferry at Sjaeland Odde was at 3PM. The next would not be until 5PM. It was going to be another tight push to make the 3PM ferry. style='mso-spacerun:yes'> I was hot and tired. I had been pushing an ever strengthening head wind since 10AM. I thought about spending the night on Sjaeland Odde at a Kro but when I checked it out I discover"ed that it would only open at 5:15. So I went on to the ferry landing arriving at 3:15. The ferry landing was a big parking lot and my spot for waiting was at the far end from the concessions. I didn't want to leave my bike, so I just stayed put until the ferry arrived. style='mso-spacerun:yes'> While I was waiting. It got cool enough that I pulled out my Jacket. When boarding started, the two-wheeled passengers were just me and a motorcydist.

The ferry was big and had a dining room with service. I opted for the Buffet and had my first snack of the day. At 5:30 it was more like a light supper. I had a roll and jam, some kind of paté and a large diet Coke.

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After the ferry docked I headed toward Ebeltoft and got to the Vandrerhjem around 6:30PM. I took a single room with 4 bunk beds upstairs. The downstairs was filled with a group of 10-12 year olds. There were a few other older couples and later some other bikes showed up. I did not get to meet the cyclists attached to the bikes until after bireakfast the next day. Since I arrived too late to find an open restaurant, the hostel manager suggested the gas station/market for a snack. I bought a Hot Dog, a Lemon Fanta and a 'Magnum'. It was on my first cycle Trip to Slovakia in 2000 with Bob Simonds that I discovered this special chocolate covered Ice Cream on a Stick. I will always remember Bob and the special trip we had that year. style='mso-tab-count:1'>

I knew Becky had plans for lunch so I was not surprised When she did not answer when I first called around 12:30PM CST I left a message about my flats and long day. I tried again also unsuccessfully later.

Between phone calls to Becky, I called Jens Soendergaard In Randers. Because there was a very good possibility that I might arrive in Randers after the bike stores closed, I asked Jens it he could get me two new tubes to fit since it was possible that I might continue to have 'flat' problems,

Surprisingly, the noise from the kids Subsided around 10:30 and I was off to sleep.

8/26/03 - To Randers

Breakfist at the Vandverhjem started at 8AM and the kids were as active as the night before. There were enough of then to dominate the dining hall. I found a quiet table in the corner but was soon surroundel by 10 - 12 year olds. For some reason only girls Sat at my table.

After Breakfast, I began to load up my bike. As I was doing so I noticed one of the other cyclists doinq the same. I started a Conversation. The 40 ish guy was Claes Dollander from Falkenberg, Sweden. Claes was headed to breakfast. We continued our conversation over his breakfast and my second cup of coffee. He had taken the ferry from Sweden to Grenaa and was planning to catch the 10AM ferry to Sjaelands Odde.

It seems every year about this time he gets away for a week for a bike trip. He too has a non-cycling family.

I headed away from Ebeltoft with a nice cool breeze and only later did it warm up. Not far from Edbeltoft, I began climbing away from the coast. Soon the route crossed a small peninsula and I was wrapping around a small bay. Near the town of Ronde there was a short section of gravel on the designated route. while trying to follow it I took a wrong turn and soon was in a thick woods was off course. Thanks to my GPS, I was able to see this and started to back track. The gravel was thick, soft and unridable back up the steep hill. Near the top of the hill, I reached a group of 'Scouts' and their leader. Witn tneir help, I was able to get back on track. Continuing around the bay. I was about to turn off the designated cycle route and was consulting my map when two women on cycles came by and showed me the better route would be if I continued a little further South. It was unusual to find Danish cyclists style='mso-spacerun:yes'> wearing helmets but these women were the first serious cyclists I had encountered that had helmets.

The route from Ebeltoft around the bay was National No. 5. I now followed Regional Rt 3 to Hornslet where I had a snack in a food kiosk next to a "Quick Stop" type gas station. The kiosks are like a mini MacDonalds with a picnic table or two.

At Clausholm, I had my 3rd flat of the trip. I figured I was about an hour out of Randers and it was 1:30PM. I had planned to meet Jens outside his work at 3:00PM. The back up plan if I was late was to meet him at his house. I got to Randers at 3:15. Following Jens excellent maps of the bike route and my GPS, I was able to find my way to the street where Jens lives. What didn't show on Jens maps or my GPS, was how steep the street was. It was perhaps my steepest climb of the day. I was about to go knock on Jens door when he walked up. We put my bike away in the bike storage area in the condominium basement. After my shower, Jens and I headed to the town center on a walking tour of the city. Dinner was at a small Cafeteria.

8/27/03 - To Thorning (Knudstrup)

The next day it was time for me to be off and Jens Rode with me to the edge of town before he headed off to work.

It was cool and brisk as I headed away from Randers toward Viborg. I was to have a strong headwind all the way. style='mso-spacerun:yes'>

In trying to break from my previous two days of not eating at all during the ride, I had lunch in Viburg at a food kiosk. These are like a mini MacDonalds with a picnic table or two.

Heading South out of Viborg. I picked up a tailwind and was soon

on the Haervejen.

Near Dollarup, the bike route paralleled the ancient road (now just a walklng path). The walking path Passed through a field of heather in bloom. I was able to take a photo of a woman picking berries.

A little later, I met a recumbent cyclist from the Hague, Netherlands. We stopped on the cycle path and had a conversation and exchanged email addresses.

Just South of Thorning, I stopped for the day at the Knudstrup Kro where I had made reservations. Supper was style='mso-spacerun:yes'> Peber Bof.(Peppered Beef) At Knudstrup Kro, I was to be the only guest. It was not hard to understand why. The accomodations were very basic. The Bath Room was down the hall. I also was the only customer for dinner except for the regular bar patrons.

8/28/03 style='mso-spacerun:yes'> To Jelling

I was able to eat breakfast and getaway at 8AM. The bike route ran along farm roads often through thick woods. There were lots of small warbler-like birds to hold my interest. Once I saw a 'hawk' fly away with some newly caught prey.

The Haervejen runs through farmland too. Most of the roads are just about one lane wide and what does not pass through forest, usually has lots of thick rosebushes or other hedge to provide only a near view with occasional glimpses of the surrounding area.

Most of the morning was spent passing through Small communities with names like Kragelund, Funder Kirkeby and Vrads. I stopped In Vrads to check my route maps and while I has doing so, two Indian women on their way to a birthday party invitel me to attend the meditatlon center that I had passed on my way into town.

Around 10:30 at Noerre Snede, I stopped at the Tourist Info building for a map and directions to where I could find a cup of coffee to warm up and a lunch snack.

Just outside of Noerre Snede, I hit the first 6km stretch of gravel on my planned traverse of the Haervejen. style='mso-spacerun:yes'> Going was slow but not impossible. I did walk one section of loose gravel on a hill.

Just as I was getting back on paved road I saw rain clouds. I caught the first sprinkles in Noerre Kollemorten. It continued to rain lightly until I ran into road construction about 1 km North of Givskud. A few kilometers North of the road constructIon, I had seen a Caution sign at an intersectIon. Of course it was in Danish. I figured there must be road work ahead, but I saw a bus coming north on thu road so I figured it must be passable for a bus so I should be able to get through on a bike. Well, the paved road ended suddenly in a pile of loose dirt. It was certain that the bus did not cross this. On the other side of the Construction, I could see the road continue. The construction was apparently a new freeway and ''my'' road was getting a new bridge and approach. The bridge was complete, the approach was very much under construction. I decided that I could push the bike through the graded dirt. and lift it on to the bridge. Just after I crossed the newly completed bridge a guy in a big piece of construction equipment came up and stopped. He said I was living life a little risky. I agreed. We chatted and as I was leaving, he pulled a beer from inside the cab of his vehicle and gave it to me. I thanked him and headed South as the rain had now stopped.

At Kollemorten, I skipped the next short stretch of gravel and picked up the Haervejen on the other side. I pulled into Skovdal Kro about 2:30PM. Again I find I an, the only guest.

I have been surprized at the Low volume of North bound traffic. I think I saw two couples and maybe 2 other single cyclissts heading North. I neither passed or was passed by anyone going South.

My spirits are the lowest that they hare been on this trip. It could be the cold rain. Or the disappointment that the Haervejen was not so scenic and that it was densely wooded in places and my views were mostly evergreens. I guess mostly I am missing people contact.

It rained two more times after I checked into Skovdal Kro.

8/29/03 - to Assens

The weather looks better this AM but the room is cold and I stay under the covers until Breakfast is served at 8AM.

The room has a TV and I have been able to catch the weather forecast. It looks better than yesterday but the wind is now predicted to be out of the NE. So much for my hope for a tail wind as I make my turn East.

Breakfast is not until 8AM. So I expect that my longest day won't even get an early Start.

I regret that I did not go through Jelling to see the famous "stone" yesterday But the pressure to Cover over 80 km. Today and the reluctance to climb back Into town Is making me a slave to the road ahead.. I do not like this feeling and need to do something to change that.

Well, I made it as far as Middelfart. About 25 miles by Noon. I stopped at a food kiosk. just inside of Town to regroup. I was beginning to cloud up seriously so I decided to find a place to stay Instead of push on. I happen el to be near a Vacation Retreat (''Folke Faerie'').They only rented cottages and were having and end of summer special. It Sounded So good I opted to stay two days and revise my trip. While I was waiting for my cottage to be available it started raining.A light but steady rain at first but It has continued all afternoon and looks like it will be doing so most of the night.

Also while I was waiting for my cottage. The appeared a guy on a bike with a guitar on his back. I struck up a conversation. He was waiting for a Norwegian Choir group that was arriving by Bus. He and several others were going to welcome the Norwegians with song. I decided to stay and watch. Soon a guy in a motorbike arrived He was traveling with the Norwegian choir. When I was Introduced I found out he had lived in Austin and New York state.

Soon I felt accepted by the welcoming Committee. They even gave me a copy ot the Song Sheet 'Aulcl Lang Syne' In Norwegian or Danish. The Norwegians arrived. The welcome Committee sang its Song. Everyone joined in. I took Pictures.

After I checked In, I Showered ard called Becky. The Center has free Internet so I took advantag and caught up on email.

Restraurant window bird lit in a tree.

At 11:30PM, it still is raining. It has been raining now for over 10 hours. Sometimes very hard but mostly just a cold wet drizzle.

8/30/03 - Middelfart

At 7:30AM in the morning. it is still raining steadily. Because of the rain, I really don't want to venture into town to check on catching the train tomorrow. style='mso-spacerun:yes'> I guess I will have to eventually, but first I will do much of the ground work via the internet. At least for now I am warm and dry.

Around 10 AM I started walking into town to the rail station. As I walked, it rained harder. I reached the train station and checked out my route for tomorrow. It looks like I will have to negotiate a long flight of stairs to get to the platform. I bought a ticket for me and the bike and a seat reservation for the bike. yes that is right the bike needs a reservation.

Not to thrilled with the option of walking back in the rain, I hired a taxi to take me from the Railroad Station to the Resort hotel. I spent the rest of the morning and. afternoon inside making phone calls and reservations. Now I am packed and ready to get back to Copenhaven.

About 4:30 PM, it finally stopped raining and showed some signs of clearing. Not to be optimistic, the TV weather calls for more rain tomorrow. All in all, the rain lasted for almost 30 hours.

8/31/03 - To Koebenhavn

I woke this morning to near clear skies. It is cool and clouds are building in the west. The high in Copenhagen is expected to be 61. In just under an hour I had breakfast and was packed by 8AM. My train is not until 12:17 PM though I plan to be at the platform well over an hour before to check out the loading procedures.

In the cool morning, while waiting for time to leave for the train station, I took a walk around the resort. In that space of time, it started to sprinkle.

Just before 10AM, I started to the train station. In order to negotiate the stairs up to the platform, I had to carry my bike. As I started to, a couple walked by and the guy offered to help. I got there in time to watch several trains load and even one bike board before my 12:17 train. There was an older woman waiting on the platform. I asked her several questions about the process and she was helpful. Just before her 11:17 train, it started to cloud up and get cold and windy. Even with my arm and leg warmers and rain jacket, I was shivering.Just after the 11:17 traln left lor Copenhaven, it started raining. By the time my train came it had cleared off and was sunny again.

The train ride was uneventful. I did have to share my space with 3 baby carriages, 2 babies and 4 other adults.

When I arrived at my destination - Kastrup, I was In the underground of the airport. Exiting to street level was a breeze. There was a moving walk way ramping up to street level. After an easy pass through the airport lobby I was outside and staving at a bike path. I followed this across the freeway and then followed local streets using my GPS until I was at the Hotel just a few blocks from the airport.

From the hotel, I took a taxi to my original hotel and recovered my bags.

After I got back to my hotel, I made a quick phone call to Becky, took a shower and headed down to dinner.

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9/1/03 - Koebenhavn

After dinner, I got in contact with Mikael Seierup. He mentioned a bicycle shop in Christiana that had a brass cycle bell that I wanted as a souvenir. I told him I would call if I got going early enough. I got an early start to pick up my rescheduled air tickets, so I called Mikael. When F went down to retrieve my bike, I discovered my 4th flat. I let Mikael know that I would be delayed and proceeded to fix it. I got to Mikael's about 10:30 and we went to the bike store where I got my bell. The bike stove also sold Petersen bikes These weke the first I had seen except in pictures.

After the bike store. Mikael and I went on our separate errands. I got my new tickets and returned to the hotel where I packed my bikefor the trip home.