Destination: Galanta, Slovak Republic
Daily Cycle Distance: 83.3 km. (35.24 mi.)
We left Deutsch-Haslau after Frühstück (9:40AM) and headed
back to Prellenkirschen. It was Sunday, people were gathering in town for
church. We passed through the town in what was to be come a repeated
exercise. We usually approached all towns single file with one recumbent
50-75m behind the other. The first recumbent zips through the main
part of town, the second recumbent gets to watch the expressions on
the faces as it passes. As Bob said, "This was the best way to
get stared at and still keep all your clothes on."
Near Edelstal, we passed through some vineyards with wine
cellars built into the ground. Next was Berg where we were able to take
a shortcut to the Border checkpoint. At Berg, I got my first glimpse of
Slovakia. Off in the distance were row after row of high rise apartment
buildings. It looked impressive, it also looked sterile.
At the border, I cashed in 1500ATS for 4500 SKK.(~$120) and we met several
Dutch cyclists also crossing the border headed to Budapest. From customs,
we took a cycle path East along the South side of the Danube.
We were able to follow the cycle path over a bridge across
the Danube to a rather seedy mostly abandoned industrial complex. We wandered
lost through this area as the path turned south and we needed to divert
East. Eventually found the tertiary route 522 through some typical Slovak
towns.
Although we tried in Most pri Bratislave, we were unable to get any lunch.
Restaurants seem to be closed in small villages on Sunday. Villages that
we passed through today: Most pri Bratislave, Tomáov, Zlaté Klasy, Nový Źivot, Jelka, Vel‘ké, Úl‘any,
and Sládovičovo.
I expected to see rundown villages in Slovakia and I wasn‘t disappointed. Sládovičovo
was particularly depressed. Even though several Youth Hostels were listed
in this town, I did not even want to stop to check them out. Most of
the cars that we‘ve seen are in very bad shape, old Communist era Ladas,
Skodas etc. All belching diesel fumes. Although occasionally, you see some
very nice autos with SK plates.
Many Slovaks we‘ve encountered are not well groomed. Their appeareance is
probably reflective of their low incomes. While passing through Jelka, I
encountered a stark contrast to the typical Slovak villager. Chatting
with her more typical Slovakian friends was a very attractive teenager. She
seemed quite out of place with very dark skin and dark eyes. I wonder if
she was Gypsy.
In Galanta, we found the 2-Star hotel (City Hotel). None
of the others on my list had any stars. It was dark and the main door was
locked. I was about to suggest that we move on when Bob spotted the bell
button next to the door. When we rang the bell, the manager came and let
us in. The room was 970SKK ($25). We were allowed to park our bikes in
the abandoned disco next to the lobby. The room was sparse, and the whole
building was a typical Soviet era concrete slab high rise. The front door
stayed locked all the time and the lights were turned off except when absolutely
necessary. The language barrier is more of a problem than I anticipated.
We could have used a phone to call the U.S., but they only take pre-paid
phone cards or coins.
My mood is quite low at this point. The rundown bleak city,
an inability to adequately communicate with the locals, the poverty in
the region have all contributed to my mood. In the last 4 hours, I have
seen slum-like dwellings that have not seen any external repair or a coat
of paint in maybe 40 years. I passed by abandoned, rusting factories. If
what I have seen today is a harbinger of the rest of the trip, it may be
a long week in Slovakia.
However, weather has been about 24°C (75°F) and cloudy. While the wind has
been steady, it has been mostly to our backs. (Thanks Becky.) I have
also been surprised by the mostly flat terrain. That is due to change soon.
I am hopeful that tomorrow we will make it to Nitra for the night and that
the countryside will be more scenic if not more hilly.
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